
I left with an itinerary and came home with a glovebox full of receipts from towns I can’t name.
The coast road does something to your sense of urgency. Every headland promises the same view slightly rearranged, and after the third one you stop checking how far there is to go. I drove until the light went pink and slept wherever the light ran out.
The best day was the unplanned one
A hand-painted sign, a wrong turn, and a bakery with four things on the board. I ate standing up, watching the tide come in over a car park that clearly wasn’t designed for it. Nothing about it was remarkable, which is precisely why I keep telling people about it.
What I’d pack again
- One book, finished slowly, no substitutes allowed.
- A jumper for the evenings, even in a heatwave.
- Cash, for the places that pretend it’s still 1998.
I came back sunburnt in a stripe across one arm and thoroughly convinced that the point of a plan is to have something to abandon.